Sunday, December 13, 2009

Laforet Tokyo

This is an old entry of my log on 21 July 2008.

One day in 2002, I was on my way back to the city where I stay, stopping over in Tokyo. I took the Airport Limousine to Shinagawa Prince, and on the way, the bus stopped by Laforet in Shinagawa, before stopping at the Prince. I had been to Japan for so many times that I thought I should get used to the scenary of this country and should not have profound feeling when encountering something new. I had this thought many times but each time I was proven to be wrong. Every time I met with something of my taste in Japan, be it a new thing or a familiar experience, I had that refreshing feeling. Laforet, again, gave me the refreshment I longed for. Probably I was awaken after a brief nap which I always did whenever I sat inside a limousine bus to downtown Tokyo. I saw a couple of bellboys, welders and disciplined, picking up luggages for their clients at Laforet. What a beautiful moment! The yellowish light at the entrance that appeared to glow exceptionally bright, accompanied by the darkening sky with the fiery purplish hue, presented the best picture of the working bellboys. I was not sure what this hotel was, but not long after this moment, my memory put this picture away. All I had perhaps was a faint memory of the word Laforet. Time flies, and 6 years later, I again planned my trip to Japan of this year. I haven't gone to Japan this year because of the honeymoon for which I chose France. The autumnal temperament made a sojourn to Japan inevitable and irresistible. Except one in the early 1990s in which I was a college student, my trips to Japan were never budget ones. I am never thrifty when coming to enjoying the best of Japan. I am not particularly financially better off, but I think that whenever affordable, I should enable my heart and soul to be touched by the essence of Japan without disturbance. One way to achieve this is to make peace of mind a first place. I do not need to worry about transportation, accommodation, food, books and sightseeing arrangements. So I would choose the best that I can afford. One day when I was browsing on the Net for hotel information, the picture of the Laforet bellboys at dusk was suddenly retrieved from the archives and it gave me the comforting moment as strong and alive as when in 2002 I actually saw them. The actual substance of this moment remains somewhat beyond verbal description, but the desirability and comfort drawn on the picture I recalled and the Japan I know definitely played an important part here. I decided to look for Laforet and my memories were correct. Can I really experience Laforet this time? From a commuting perspective, it is not truly a desirable place. Laforet is located in Shinagawa, a short distance from the JR station. Although Shinagawa is not comparable with Shinjuku, Shibuya or Ikebukuro, if trendy nightlife is your goal, it has certain attractiveness to me, so to speak, for it is still on the Yamanote Line and Shinjuku and Shibuya are only a couple of stations away. But Shinagawa is far subtler in the sense that the chances of meeting those loud people from the city where I stay would be much lower, and it has also some historical significance not far from that which you would find in Shinjuku, Ginza or Tokyo Marunouchi.

I don't know what else to say...but I am certain that the reality created by, if you will, the Laforet experience, would be an enjoyable one - it is a pursuit of happiness, serious and far from frivolous, stretching the amplitude of life, in what I believe is the highest level of human living. That evening, alone and tranquil, was a moment and it was eternity.

Tuesday, December 01, 2009

Kamakura

I think it is great to read some history in a softer way. Formal, detailed hard history is good to read seriously. In a sense it is a necessary form of archiving incidents past. At times, we should enjoy some leisure moments, very much in an austere manner I suppose, and read history, including the livelihood of people in the past, without having to speculate how the train of events occurs and developments unfolded. All I need is some information on which I can think about how the world looked like at that time. Appended below is an article in Chinese, from the Hong Kong Economic Journal of 1st December 2009.

鐮倉大佛 抹茶冰淇淋
奧巴馬總統十一月訪問日本,在三得利音樂廳講演,開篇就談到,幼時母親曾帶他到鐮倉看過大佛,但他的興趣卻在「抹茶冰淇淋」上。鐮倉大佛為日本國寶。不但高大(高十三米多;重一百二十一噸),而且與日本其他地區的大佛不同,頷首低頭,視線向下,明顯有中國佛像風格。
雖說日本的佛教是經由中國、朝鮮半島傳來,但佛像多具日本特色,而鐮倉一帶的佛像很多帶有中國傳統。十二世紀末,與京都天皇「公家」對立的源賴朝,被任命為征夷大將軍,建館鐮倉,一般被認為是 「鐮倉幕府」時代的開始。這時正值中國北南宋、遼金交替時代,鐮倉幕府從中國引進了「禪宗」思想,作為武士的精神支柱。由實權人物北條時賴(源賴朝之丈)在鐮倉建立了日本第一個「禪寺」—建長寺。而鐮倉左近寺院的佛像,也就多如中國佛像體態舒展、表情豐富,衣紋也多模仿中國的雕刻樣式。鐮倉附近青雲寺的「觀音菩薩遊戲坐像」,甚至就是在中國造好再運來的。為了方便與中國的船隻往來,還在鐮倉海邊人工建島(和賀江島)。這裏出土了很多中國的陶瓷器皿和錢幣。甚至有人認為,當時的鐮倉市面都是一色中國風格。
但這些都是作為武家政權的鐮倉幕府,要與京都的貴族文化「劃清界限」,建立獨自文化而為。鐮倉三面環山,一面臨海。把守從關西京都到關東江戶的要衝。古時不但外圍有「鐮倉七口」要隘,防止入侵,市內小路也故意造得盤根錯節,而且不畫在地圖上,敵軍即使侵入也會暈頭轉向。大佛位於鐮倉西口,據說也是表明與西邊京都勢力的對抗。
大佛是高德院的本尊如來坐像,建於十三世紀中葉。原計劃是木雕,不知怎麼就變成銅像了。大殿毀於十五世紀末的大海嘯,大佛就成了露天的了。現在花二十日圓就可以進入大佛底座觀看。
奧巴馬說他從大佛看到了和平和寧靜,但其實背後卻隱藏着戰爭的血腥。鐮倉幕府因抵禦元朝從海上來犯,財政吃緊,被當時的後醍醐天皇派兵攻陷。執掌幕府的北條一族兵敗自盡,鐮倉幕府落下帷幕。
其實,鐮倉的一些「洋館(洋式建築)」也是很有味道的。往往地處半山,高窗明室,建築奇巧。明治後,當時西洋的「休閒觀」傳入日本,鐮倉附近的湘南海岸成為日本第一個海水浴場,很多文人、豪族、實業家被吸引到鐮倉建宅邸,被稱為「鐮倉文士」。小說家里見惇在關東大地震後,於鐮倉建洋館,據說防震是沿用了當時帝國飯店的標準。但又在旁邊為自己建了一棟和式的寫作間。
我遊鐮倉,不看大佛,不走大路,喜歡躲開眾多遊客穿小道,可以看到一般市民的生活。還可以在新建的洋式建築間徘徊,出入小規模的美術展覽,間或靜靜地喝一杯咖啡。當然,也一定會有冰淇淋,而且是「抹茶」的。